By Susan Stapleton, Des Moines Register
Originally published October 16, 2026.
The line to get a seat at Tacos La Familia often begins early, with regulars slipping into the bright, unfussy taqueria in Des Moines’ River Bend neighborhood for the birria and barbacoa that have anchored Sixth Avenue’s dining identity. In the kitchen, a simmering pot of consomé perfumes the room long before the first taco ahogado is plated. Diners patiently wait for one of the handful of tables, or grab their food to go.
The everyday rhythm has earned national attention: USA TODAY has named Tacos La Familia one of the best taco restaurants in the country on Oct. 16.
A taqueria rooted in family
The recognition highlights the partnership at the restaurant’s heart. Ricardo Arana oversees operations and the taqueria’s steady expansion, while Jose Luis Laja, his stepfather, is the culinary architect behind the menu. His birria, perfected over years and rooted in tradition, helped spark Des Moines’ birria boom long before the dish became a national trend.
To gather the initial funds to open the business, Laja and Arana worked multiple jobs together. Even after the restaurant opened in 2016, family members practically lived in the tiny 1,200-square-foot restaurant space to establish its reputation.
The business almost didn’t survive its first month after a missed city inspection. Arana was forced to temporarily close just weeks after the grand opening. What followed was three months with no income. Friends stepped in to help Arana cover expenses and navigate the inspection process, saving the business from bankruptcy.
Now nearly a decade after the tumultuous launch, Tacos La Familia has outgrown its original home, with plans to move into much larger Sixth Avenue space across the street with a full bar, live entertainment and dedicated catering operations.
More: Where to find the best tacos in Des Moines, from birria to barbacoa
What to order at Tacos La Familia
Tacos La Familia leans into straightforward, authentic street taco staples filled with carne asada, al pastor and barbacoa, among other proteins. Here’s what to order.
Street tacos, starting at $3 each: Options include barbacoa (lamb), carne asada (steak), al pastor (marinated pork), lengua (tongue), chorizo (sausage), pescado (fish) and tripa (beef intestine), among others. Diners can also order fried tacos (starting at $3.50 each) or flour tacos (starting at $3 each).
Tacos ahogados (drowned tacos), starting at $4 each: Crispy, deep-fried corn tortillas are dipped in beef birria soup, fried with melted cheese and filled with a choice of protein, such as birria, asada, al pastor, chorizo or pollo and topped with cilantro and onions.
Birria: Shredded beef tacos served with consommé for dipping. Beef birria dishes come in quesadillas, tacos, burritos, tortas and pizzadilla.
The restaurant was named to the Des Moines Register’s Essential Restaurants list for 2025, a nod to its influence on the city’s taco culture and its consistent execution.
Details: 1610 Sixth Ave., Des Moines, 515-244-6659, tacoslafamiliaia.com.
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